Most of this is quite standard, if a little extreme. Dogs shouldn't demand attention or food. The "no free lunch" rule is one I've found useful. Basically, the dog doesn't get attention, treats, food, or anything else without earning it - if only by obeying a simple "sit" or "down" command. The dog should also learn to ask for anything it feels is particularly desirable - getting on the sofa, etc. - and wait for your go ahead.

Ignoring dogs is also a powerful punishment. Turning your back, arms folded when the dog is too pushy. We also use "time outs" - five minutes shut in the loo (other people use crates) - to allow the dog to calm down if it's too excited. The doggy equivalent of supernanny's naughty step.

Distracting the dog when its attention wanders is pretty normal too.

There's a couple of bits that give me concern. First one is not feeding the dog for long periods. Greyhounds should be fed twice a day, especially ex-racers, who may have psychological hang ups over food. Providing food 24 hours a day is a bad idea (even if I tend to do it!) but there's less extreme plans you can try. Say, prepare the food, eat something yourself (if only a biscuit or a couple of crisps - top dog eats first!), then put the bowl down. Give the dog 15 minutes or so to eat, then pick up the bowl, even if it hasn't finished.


Secondly, the lead twirling is just odd. I've not heard of this before, and can't see why it would be needed. If you've got a short lead, you should have control anyway. Seems a bit too "physcial" for my taste. With a big dog like a greyhound you can't really let control be a matter of who's stronger, or who's more willing to hurt the other. You really need to be in control through your calm manner, control of food and affection, and consistent enforcement of rules.

All just my opinion, and I'm not a behaviourist.

Cheers,
Graham

I'm of the same opinion as Graham, I don't think the lead swinging is good. TBH I don't like any kind of physical punishment, especially with an ex-racer.You don't know all that happened in the past and I personally don't believe its necessary. Theres a fine line between a well-behaved dog and a broken one who does what it is told because it fears retribution.
Ignoring Mason when he is not behaving well seems to work better. He wants to be the centre of attention so ignoring him has a bigger impact than reacting.
I don't buy into a lot of the dog psychology, when I was at Viv Silverstein's class last year she said one thing which I thought was well worth considering - don't read too much into behaviour, if you are sitting on a sofa and your dog stands over you it does not necessarily mean its dominating you - it could just mean he wants his tummy rubbed.
Building a bond takes time.
If its any comfort six months ago I thought Mason totally ignored anything I said and he didn't even react when I tried to get his attention when he was offlead.
Now, a year after bringing him home, the improvement has been astonishing and he is clearly much more attentive to me.
Don't feel  pressure to rush things.
Marie

I believe some greys take longer than others to learn things and it can take months for them to attempt new things or get the hang of something.  So patience and time is important!!  

I've seen working dogs that are super obedient, they worship their owners and do wait for the tiniest scrap of attention that is thrown to them. This can make it difficult for them to adapt to a life where love and attention is given freely. Strict training is all very well when the dog is being trained for a job, but rescue dogs tend to be 'past working' and so finding the correct balance between 'keeping them in their place' and letting them bond with you, is tricky. It's different for every dog, but hounds are even trickier. I don't like the 'no food' thing, a hungry hound is even more likely to revert to it's natural skills to find food (watch out all small furry rabbits, cats and small dogs)
I hope you continue enjoying Misti, none of mine walk to heel but they do seem to take time to acknowledge me at regular intervals and do show face when I call them. You are doing the right thing by cherry picking the bits of training you know will suit your dog and ignore the rest. You've paid for the advise so use it to your best advantage There is some wisdom in the advise of anyone who has had years of experience with dogs, it's just seperating out the chaff that takes time.

Indiana wrote:

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Definitely go with your instincts. You know when something doesn't feel right. Asking for manners from a dog is the right way to go. Most of us are not looking for the 'perfectly-behaved' dog. Just a dog that we can love but we know will behave in company and that we can trust in our presence. Harsh methods are not necessary for that

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Exactly.  I dont want her to juggle and backflip.  Just to behave and be under control.



-- Edited by fridays mystic at 23:49, 2008-01-22

  I'll try a few things and see what works.  I'm not too hung up on it as i feel it'll probably calm down once she gets older and she's been with me longer. 

-- Edited by fridays mystic at 23:50, 2008-01-22

fridays mystic wrote:

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Yeah.  I see what your saying.  I'll try a few things and see what works.  I'm not too hung up on it as i feel it'll probably calm down once she gets older and she's been with me longer.  I'm just working on staying really calm and not making a big deal out it.  If i see a cat and start flapping then she'll flap too.

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Just a thought on that bit, I have been taking my dog Jet to a behaviourist because he has a fear of other dogs and what's really working for him is just that, walking past them and keeping calm, we have to pretend that we don't see the other dog, and just basically acting as you would before you got your dog.

I hadn't realised until we went along how much we had suddenly seen other dogs being a big deal because we knew Jet would react and this was making him worse.

It's working really well for him with dogs it's worth a try with other things